Collaborations were critical in driving the culture forward and getting more people involved. They have proved that they can provide not just security but also unity to the market. What do you think collaborations brought to the space? Hype, trust, unity, and a slew of other elements that are appropriate for this environment and have contributed to or will continue to assist push the culture forward. Collaborations foster trust and boost brand development in sneaker and streetwear cultures, both of which rely on consumer trust. There will be no customers, community, or brand if there is no trust and faith.
Even though I believe collaborations are important for the culture, they haven’t always been a hit with sneakerheads. Let me give you an example from each side.
Sean Wotherspoon and Nike debuted the Nike Air Max 1/97 on March 26, 2018, which many believed to be the shoe of the year. The shoe was given this designation because it was unique, innovative, and extremely limited. Sean was well-known for his Two Round shops. But it wasn’t until the sneaker release that he became a household name. Things have changed, and we can now talk about an Air Max without mentioning Sean. These are collaborations that are identified by the end product rather than the namesake alone. Most sneakerheads and non-sneakerheads get sucked into a sneaker collab because of the power of the person or brand involved.
In contrast to Sean’s collaboration, which was a massive hit in history, Don C’s collaboration with Jordan Brand from the same year was a flop. This was surprising considering Don C is a sneaker culture icon who can sell anything to the hypebeast community. The sneaker community did not like the Don C x Air Jordan Legacy 312. They could’ve been marked down at some retailers after the drop. Even still, others would tell you that the sneaker was “pure heat”.
I just wanted to give you a little overview of collaboration and what it means to culture, and now I’d want to move on to the collaborations that I believe have had a significant impact on culture.
Supreme x Vans ( 1996 )
This is arguably the collaboration that started it all in 1996. Supreme applied its unique style to the footwear of early West Coast skateboarding to create a trio of Vans Old Skools. Only two years have passed since Supreme’s inception, yet this partnership predicted what was to come.
The collaboration between these two is as strong as ever now, spanning more than three decades and including a high list from 2008’s Supreme x Bad Brains x Vans.
Throughout the three decades, the relationship has covered a large portion of the Vans collection, beginning with the Old Skool, Slip-On, Sk8-Hi, and the 2012 Half Cab.
Jil Sander x PUMA ( 1998 )
Sportswear stalwart PUMA and minimalist maven Jil Sander teamed up in 1998 for an all german collaboration.
It was the first collaboration between a luxury designer and a sports equipment brand. There are lifestyle versions of the King football cleat and the Easy Rider jogging shoe.
Sander’s recreation of Pele’s iconic boot turned off many PUMA supporters and others in the larger football world. Later, the collaboration proved to be ahead of its time.
This cooperation paved the way for a partnership between PUMA and Alexander McQueen, paving the way for crossover collaborations between the worlds of fashion and sports.
Stussy x Nike ( 2000 )
Nike and Michael Kopelman released a limited edition Air Huarache at Stussy’s London flagship store in 2000. It was regarded as Nike’s first sneaker collaboration.
Although many people recognize this pair as a Sussy and Nike collaboration, it was not specifically advertised as such. Despite this, Nike partnered with Stussy for their first-ever brand collaboration Dunk in 2001, releasing three colorways across two highs and one low.
Recently, the two brands collaborated on Blazers, Air Max 95s, Air Force 1s, and other sneakers, illustrating what it means to work together to advance sneaker collaborations.
Nike SB ( 2002 )
Sandy Bodecker (who sadly passed away in October 2018) revitalized Nike’s skateboarding category in 2002. Connecting with local skate shops and co-creating products with them was a simple yet groundbreaking idea for Bodeckers.
Giano Ianucci, Reese Forbes, Danny Supa, and Richard Mulder were among the first riders to collaborate. Supreme’s elephant print-adorned SB Dunks from 2002 was instrumental in starting the Dunk frenzy.
Collaborations with Diamond Supply Co. and Jeff Staple reinforced the idea that sneakers might be as collectible as anything else.
Without the collaborative spirit, the SB Dunk would never have reached its current heights.
BAPE x adidas ( 2003 )
BAPE’s first foray into footwear was with the homage sneaker BAPESTA and SKULL STA, which are reimaginations of NIGO’s favorite sneakers, the Air Force 1 and Superstars.
adidas and BAPE collaborated on the Super Ape Star in 2003. The upper of the sneaker featured BAPE’s ape-head camo print with writing throughout, including the tagline “The Respect is Mutual,” which both brands still use today.
The collaboration with BAPE was a significant driver for adidas Originals, a platform that helped reinvent Stan Smiths and Superstars as lifestyle icons.
Undefeated x Nike Air Jordan 4 ( 2005 )
One of Nike’s first partners was one of the industry’s most influential retailers. In 2002, the collaboration began with a white Friends & Family Dunk High ( a retro version of the pair was released in 2013 ). These two brands have collaborated on numerous Air Forces, signature Kobe models, and the coveted Air Jordan 4.
The Undefeated x Nike Air Jordan 4 release was limited to 72 pairs and was the first true Jordan collaboration, setting the way for Eminem’s “Encore” Jordan 4 and today’s landscape of Jordan collaborations.
Kanye West x Louis Vuitton ( 2009 ), Kanye West x Nike ( 2009 -2013), Kanye West x adidas ( 2013 — ongoing )
While on a private aircraft with Nike CEO Mark Parker in 2007, Kanye rapped, “The hood love to listen to Jeezy and Wheezy / And, oh yeah, Yeezy,” which pitched the Air Yeezy collaboration.
Developing a signature model for a non-athlete was unthinkable for Nike at the time. That was changed by Ye.
Kanye West performed at the Grammys in an unseen Nike silhouette in 2009. Following the performance, Air Yeezy 1 made public the partnership. In 2009, the “Zen Grey,” “Black Pink,” and “Net” colorways were released.
In 2012, the Air Yeezy 2 was released. They had a jagged spine going down the back of the heel and a falcon portraying the Egyptian God Horus. The most desired colorway was “Red October,” but Nike stated that it would no longer be available. Fortunately, the “Red October” came surprisingly in February 2014. It is one of the most legendary sneakers of all time, and it was West’s final work with Nike.
Ye announced the collaboration with adidas near the end of 2013, before the release of Red October’s.
The difference between the two brands and Ye’s decision to join the opposition squad was that adidas provided Ye with independence that Nike did not. They allowed him to design his signature sneakers with no restrictions or limitations.
The Yeezy shoe collection was created in conjunction with footwear legend Steven Smith. Kanye’s first silhouette was the Yeezy Boost 750.
Raf Simmons x adidas ( 2013 )
Raf Simmons redesigned the Ozweego silhouette, the original “chunky” fashion shoe that drove one of the decade’s major trends, 20 years after its debut.
Simmons is regarded as one of the most eminent living designers, and he was one of the first names from haute couture to create his products for a big sportswear brand. The collaboration took place ten years after adidas introduced their initial collaboration with Yoji Yamamoto and fifteen years after the iconic Jil Sander x PUMA collaboration.
The resulting cultural change highlighted that a powerful creative dynamic could be generated between high-fashion designers and global sportswear juggernauts.
Pharell Williams x adidas ( 2014 )
One of adidas’s bravest moves was to collaborate with Pharell, a prolific producer, songwriter, singer, designer, and cultural tastemaker.
The relationship began with Stan Smith’s before Pharell released his Superstar pack, which included 50 different colorways.
In 2016, the artist debuted his first original footwear design, the Hu NMD, which was created in extremely limited numbers, including the Pharell x Chanel x adidas Hu NMD.
The collaboration included other entities from Pharell’s world, such as co-branded adidas drops with N.E.R.D, Billionaire Boys Club, and his close friend NIGO.
Off White x Nike ( 2017 )
The release of “The Ten” was the biggest thing in the shoe game in 2017. I don’t believe anyone can dispute that. Nike footwear, as well as Nike-owned brands Converse and Jordan, were used in the collab. The partnership was gradually teased by ASAP Rocky, Drake, Kim Jones, Naomi Campbell, and many others, creating a significant cultural hype.
The address of Nike’s Beaverton headquarters and the “AIR” inscription on the midsole was among the distinguishing aspects of Abloh’s theme for “The Ten.”
“The Ten” had the most impact on any sneaker collaboration and unlocked the full potential of designer x brand collaborations.
The partnership between these two continued with new colorways, and Abloh and Nike released “Dear Summer” in 2021. A series of 50 one-of-a-kind Nike Dunks was offered only to Nike SNKRS app members. “Dear Summer” marked yet another watershed moment in sneaker collaborative history.
Many more collaborations have had an impact on culture, such as Sean Wotherspoon’s Air Max 1/97, Aleali May’s Jordan 1 Shadow, Vasthie’s Kola Air Jordan 2, and the list goes on. I chose to highlight only these ten collaborations because I feel they were the ones who initiated new movements and shifts within the culture and had the greatest influence on its path and growth.
As is usual, I will conclude this article by posing a question that I would love to debate with you on Twitter:
I’m looking forward to hearing your answers! If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to get in touch with me!
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Thanks a lot! Have a wonderful day!